Long travel day. Amazing that I could keep sleeping all the time in the plane, in the first bus, in the second bus, in the third bus, and in the last shared taxi (we got lost).
It's a bit weird to be back, home in a foreign land. Now I'm going to try out how it is living in Bethlehem.
Thursday 9 June 2011
Wednesday 27 April 2011
Welcome chicken!
"Welcome chicken!" was the very enthusiastic greeting from one of the sellers at the Bethlehem market today.
"My name is not chicken!" I replied, pseudo-offended and with hands at my sides. A laughed loudly, then the seller laughed when somebody laughingly translated for him what I had said.
When all the laughter had cooled off we got free tea from him. And bought a chicken.
We had heard "Hello falafel!" some minutes before from another seller, but there I only got to mumble "I'm not called falafel" to A while we walked on.
Marked place can be fun.
"My name is not chicken!" I replied, pseudo-offended and with hands at my sides. A laughed loudly, then the seller laughed when somebody laughingly translated for him what I had said.
When all the laughter had cooled off we got free tea from him. And bought a chicken.
We had heard "Hello falafel!" some minutes before from another seller, but there I only got to mumble "I'm not called falafel" to A while we walked on.
Marked place can be fun.
Wednesday 20 April 2011
Three pictures from an eventful day
It's passover, and for seven days Jews are not allowed to eat anything fermented. Including beer, which is why Yesh (the supermarked, e' as the Hebrew letters looks like to me) have put a plastic cover over it. And over the bread, the bakery, the crackers, the cornflakes, the meat coated with bread crumbs, and some other things I couldn't identify. Thanks to the Arabs for still baking and selling bread!
This might soon be our new neighbour in Bethlehem (we hope!). The name sounds wrong in my ears, even though I haven't watched the silly tv-show on Danish tv.
Techno-party at Jaffa Gate, entrance to the Old City, where we saw orthodox Jews with long curls, golden holiday robes and big hats dancing side by side with youngsters and old people with white hair. It's Passover (and Easter) and the city is full of life, which is nice, but there're so many people!
Sunday 17 April 2011
Oh that jazz!
Relaxing jazz concert in Bethlehem as conclusion to the Jasmine Festival that the ESNCM had arranged. I almost fell asleep to the jazz, but it was a very refreshing and energetic jazz, so I was wonderfully relaxed and reloaded afterwards. The singer was amazing, she had a wonderful jazz-voice, and the 4 guys on drums, double-bass, guitar, and clarinet did a very good job.
Afterwards we joined the band and some of my orchestra mates (and ESNCM teachers) at Casa Nova restaurent, and had very delicious Italian ham and cheese - it tasted of something, contrary to the cheese and sliced meat we've found in the supermarked.
During the evening while we were talking to the Norwegian timpanist (from ESNCM orchestra) and his wife, first two Danes came over and said hello (I had attended a course with one of them in Århus two years ago) and then some Norwegians. Indeed a small town of Bethlehem.
Biking home from Bethlehem was a bit challenging, because the big iron gate at the checkpoint was closed. Luckily the soldiers opened it for a car going into Bethlehem, and then let us through after seing our visas - and informed us that the gate normally is closed at midnight.
Saturday 16 April 2011
Last concert!
Our last concert with the ESNCM symphony orchestra was in Hebron on the newly build Children's Center. It is so new that the people in the city hardly know it (and of course our driver didn't have an address for it and had to ask for directions), and the area around it is also only half build. Despite the playground with basket field in front it looks more like a congress center where grown-ups hold meeting about children, that a place for children.
The view from my spot in the orchestra. We're rehersing, probably tuning the strings here. The piano here is an upright and hence not so full of sound, so they had to take of the front. And our conductor spend a lot of time tuning it.
We played for a full hall of Arabs, and apparently we played the very first classical concert ever in Hebron. I wonder how many were there for the music and how many were there to say hello to each other and be seen. They behaved like they would during an Arabic concert; walking around and talking to each other and on the phone, or walking in and out of the hall. It was a bit disturbing, I'm used to a well-behaved audience sitting still and listening, but I enjoyed playing the music so much that I didn't care what the audience thought, and they were free to leave if they didn't like it. But they did like it, especially that we had the Palestinian girl on piano and that the Palestinian basoon player conducted Valse Triste, and the applause after Dvorak's Finale was resounding.
It was a bit sad when it was over, that was it for now. Many of us ran around with a piece of paper and asked for contact information for each other, and we had a group picture taken. I joined the teachers in Bethlehem at Casa Nova Restaurent for a drink and after-party, and that was a good way to gear down from an intense but wonderful week.
I wish the orchestra would meet regularily so I could continue to play in it, but I realise how difficult it is to gather students from Jerusalem and Bethlehem and Ramallah in the same place. If the rehersal is three hours and transport is one hour each way plus waiting at checkpoints, then it's a full day project each time.
The view from my spot in the orchestra. We're rehersing, probably tuning the strings here. The piano here is an upright and hence not so full of sound, so they had to take of the front. And our conductor spend a lot of time tuning it.We played for a full hall of Arabs, and apparently we played the very first classical concert ever in Hebron. I wonder how many were there for the music and how many were there to say hello to each other and be seen. They behaved like they would during an Arabic concert; walking around and talking to each other and on the phone, or walking in and out of the hall. It was a bit disturbing, I'm used to a well-behaved audience sitting still and listening, but I enjoyed playing the music so much that I didn't care what the audience thought, and they were free to leave if they didn't like it. But they did like it, especially that we had the Palestinian girl on piano and that the Palestinian basoon player conducted Valse Triste, and the applause after Dvorak's Finale was resounding.
It was a bit sad when it was over, that was it for now. Many of us ran around with a piece of paper and asked for contact information for each other, and we had a group picture taken. I joined the teachers in Bethlehem at Casa Nova Restaurent for a drink and after-party, and that was a good way to gear down from an intense but wonderful week.
I wish the orchestra would meet regularily so I could continue to play in it, but I realise how difficult it is to gather students from Jerusalem and Bethlehem and Ramallah in the same place. If the rehersal is three hours and transport is one hour each way plus waiting at checkpoints, then it's a full day project each time.
Friday 15 April 2011
Second concert
Second concert evening was in Ramallah, in the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Hope (which we couldn't find an address for from home, and our driver from Jerusalem had problems too finding it - so it's not just me!). It's a beautiful church with mosaics - and I have a weakness for mosaics, probably because they look best with light from outside. Our rehersal was early, because there was a one and a half hour mass just before the concert, and everybody (here) knows that friday afternoon is the time where people have time to go to church (they are working on sundays, being the first day of the week).
The concert went well, though I was a bit tired from yesterday. The program was the same, but tonight the basoonplayer conducted the Valse Triste as part of her conducting exam in France (it was recorded on video).
Thursday 14 April 2011
First Concert!
Today was the first concert of three with the ESNCM symphony orchestra. We started with a late lunch at a restaurent close by (and then people had time to be late without missing the rehersal) before we went to YMCA in East Jerusalem.
Full hall and our conductor introducing the Piano and the Piano concerto.
We tried out the hall and our conductor had some last comments and corrections to how we should play the music. The hall filled with people, and we played a great concert! Our conductor introduced the pieces more to the Arabic audience than I assume he would to a European. We started with Mozart's Overture to Don Giovanni, then the Piano Concerto no.29 with our 15-year old Palestinian soloist, then Valse Triste preceded by the story from the opera of the old woman dreaming and waltzing in her dreams with her husband, and then suddenly she wakes up and remembers he has been dead for long time. Before the Dvorak suite, he introduced all the instrument(group)s of the orchestra with each instrument (group) playing a short frase so the audience could hear the sound. I was nervous for my solo in the third movement (Sousedska), but after it went well in the presentation all my nervousness was gone.
The concert finished with the fast and festive Finale, and I was high on music the rest of the evening. What a wonderful feeling!
Full hall and our conductor introducing the Piano and the Piano concerto.We tried out the hall and our conductor had some last comments and corrections to how we should play the music. The hall filled with people, and we played a great concert! Our conductor introduced the pieces more to the Arabic audience than I assume he would to a European. We started with Mozart's Overture to Don Giovanni, then the Piano Concerto no.29 with our 15-year old Palestinian soloist, then Valse Triste preceded by the story from the opera of the old woman dreaming and waltzing in her dreams with her husband, and then suddenly she wakes up and remembers he has been dead for long time. Before the Dvorak suite, he introduced all the instrument(group)s of the orchestra with each instrument (group) playing a short frase so the audience could hear the sound. I was nervous for my solo in the third movement (Sousedska), but after it went well in the presentation all my nervousness was gone.
The concert finished with the fast and festive Finale, and I was high on music the rest of the evening. What a wonderful feeling!
Wednesday 13 April 2011
Harman Science Library
I went to the Hebrew University in Givat Ram (not Mount Scopus where A studies) to try to find the Science Library. And I did! Got help from a fellow biker (!) to find campus, and the guards at the gate just wanted a chat before letting me in, they didn't even want to check my bag as they do at Mount Scopus.
I found the science part and another guy helped me find the prober building with the library. I first entered the reading/ working hall, but then found the stairs down to the library proper - and vóila stood in front of books about calculus, magnetism, biochemestry, and astronomy! I found the textbook "Universe", which I had come for, and checked out the other shelves with astro books. =) Great to know the library is there, though it costs money for non-students to lend books.
I found the science part and another guy helped me find the prober building with the library. I first entered the reading/ working hall, but then found the stairs down to the library proper - and vóila stood in front of books about calculus, magnetism, biochemestry, and astronomy! I found the textbook "Universe", which I had come for, and checked out the other shelves with astro books. =) Great to know the library is there, though it costs money for non-students to lend books.
Tuesday 12 April 2011
Maybe a new place to live?
We are tired of this place, and for several reasons; kitchen standards and money problems are the main two.
I almost fell into a scam site, wanting deposit before we got to see the place and then claiming to pay it back if we didn't want it. Luckily A googled the "company" crownlineproberty and the first hits were scam warnings. Sigh. Why are people so cruel?
It's expensive to live in Jerusalem, today we're going to look at another place, but it is also just a room in a shared apartment and for the same price as here. Maybe Bethlehem is an option?
I almost fell into a scam site, wanting deposit before we got to see the place and then claiming to pay it back if we didn't want it. Luckily A googled the "company" crownlineproberty and the first hits were scam warnings. Sigh. Why are people so cruel?
It's expensive to live in Jerusalem, today we're going to look at another place, but it is also just a room in a shared apartment and for the same price as here. Maybe Bethlehem is an option?
Monday 11 April 2011
New favorite flower
This is my new favorite flower!They smell great and their purpleness is wonderful for the eyes. But does anybody know what it's called?
When I once get a garden I want such flowers (if they can survive in Denmark).
Sunday 10 April 2011
More from the symphony camp
Today with second clarinet, yay! Our combined clarinet sound is making BIG difference! And everybody knows that the more clarinet the better! She gave me a new trick with folded plaster on the teeth so not to damage the lower lip too much - my usual cigarette paper is ok but too thin when we're playing so much. She's a teacher at ESNCM, like 14 others in the orchestra, and then we're some other Western people "doping" the otherwise Palestinian orchestra. But classical music is Western, and not many Arabs enjoy it (though I know some Danes who also dislike it), and even fewer play it. But we're some (Western) people who really enjoy to play in a big orchestra!
Our conductor is also from outside Palestine, as far as I understand Colombian living and teaching in Switzerland. I think he's great, so tense and alive and seeing everybody in the orchestra, which makes everybody more alert on what he is trying to make us play.
Rehersing the Piano Concerto.
We played (click on the title to hear the music on youtube):
- Mozart's Overture to Don Giovanni. This was the one I looked most forward to playing, but Dvorak's Czech Suite, especially the Finale, ended up as my favorite after the weekend.
- first movement from his Piano Concerto no. 29 k.466. No clarinet part in this one, but with a talented 15-years old Palestinian girl at the piano.
- Sibelius' Valse Triste - also used as conducting exam piece for the Palestinian basoon player for her studies in France. Lots of cameras recording her and the orchestra. And then I realised that one of them was from MBC (tv-station), so we might have been on Arabic television.
- Dvorak's Czech Suite op.39, Pastorale, Sousedska, Romance, Finale (link til hver). I looked most forward to play Mozart, but it's Dvorak's Finale I'm singing now.
Our conductor is also from outside Palestine, as far as I understand Colombian living and teaching in Switzerland. I think he's great, so tense and alive and seeing everybody in the orchestra, which makes everybody more alert on what he is trying to make us play.
Rehersing the Piano Concerto.We played (click on the title to hear the music on youtube):
- Mozart's Overture to Don Giovanni. This was the one I looked most forward to playing, but Dvorak's Czech Suite, especially the Finale, ended up as my favorite after the weekend.
- first movement from his Piano Concerto no. 29 k.466. No clarinet part in this one, but with a talented 15-years old Palestinian girl at the piano.
- Sibelius' Valse Triste - also used as conducting exam piece for the Palestinian basoon player for her studies in France. Lots of cameras recording her and the orchestra. And then I realised that one of them was from MBC (tv-station), so we might have been on Arabic television.
- Dvorak's Czech Suite op.39, Pastorale, Sousedska, Romance, Finale (link til hver). I looked most forward to play Mozart, but it's Dvorak's Finale I'm singing now.
Saturday 9 April 2011
Symphony Orchestra camp!
This weekend I spent in Birzeit, a village in the vicinity of Ramallah, on a rehersal camp with the Edward Said National Conservatory for Music's symphony orchestra. The music school is part of the University of Birzeit, I think (but maybe I'm just mislead by the official name Edward Said Conservatory).
It's a 3 day camp friday to sunday, but Palestinian kids are off from school friday and sunday (muslim and christian holidays) so they need to be driven back to school for saturday, which gives an awkward break.
It's the first time I play in a proper symphony orchestra; It's strange to be a lonely clarinet, when I'm used to big clarinet flocks in harmony orchestra, but nice to try to be THE principal clarinet.
And I've figured out that winds are as important as strings in a symphony orchestra, or even more: the winds have all the beautiful fill-ins, give the strings' sound more colour, and they are great for solos because there's more sound in one wind instrument than in one string-. So now I'm even more proud of being a clarinetist!
It's a 3 day camp friday to sunday, but Palestinian kids are off from school friday and sunday (muslim and christian holidays) so they need to be driven back to school for saturday, which gives an awkward break.
The facade of the music school - I love the decorations!
It's the first time I play in a proper symphony orchestra; It's strange to be a lonely clarinet, when I'm used to big clarinet flocks in harmony orchestra, but nice to try to be THE principal clarinet.
And I've figured out that winds are as important as strings in a symphony orchestra, or even more: the winds have all the beautiful fill-ins, give the strings' sound more colour, and they are great for solos because there's more sound in one wind instrument than in one string-. So now I'm even more proud of being a clarinetist!
Friday 8 April 2011
Shabbat dinner with friends
One of the clarinets from the Israeli orchestra had invited us for shabbat dinner tonight. I had been rehersing in Birzeit with the ESNCM symphony orchestra (more to come on that!) so we were a bit late. But couldn't call and tell her, because Jews apparently aren't allowed to use (cell?)phones during the shabbat, starting from sundown friday, maybe because they are electric and that they hence contain sparks, which are fire, and Jews are not allowed to light fire on shabbat.
It was nice to eat and talk together all seven of us, to hear about their lives and oppinions. At the end of the meal they prayed the end-of-eating-prayer (it's called something proper, but I forgot it), which to me sounded like they were all murmuring something in Hebrew very fast for a long time. They also sang some Jewish songs in Hebrew, first with original melodies and then with alternative melodies like the Adams Family and one by Beach Boys. It was funny to hear profane and religion mixed this way, but nice that it's allowed to play in Judaism (though I don't know what the rabbis would say to it).
When we biked through the orthodox area going there, a lot of Jews dressed in traditional black coats and big hats or golden holiday robes muttered "shabeeesh!" after us, which is shabbat in Yiddish, and by that they meant we were not allowed to bike on a shabbat. Also the traficlights in the area were shut down and the roads blocked by police fences, so nobody would break the shabbat and drive a car in the area. I think it's too restrictive, but let them do it if it makes them happy.
It was nice to eat and talk together all seven of us, to hear about their lives and oppinions. At the end of the meal they prayed the end-of-eating-prayer (it's called something proper, but I forgot it), which to me sounded like they were all murmuring something in Hebrew very fast for a long time. They also sang some Jewish songs in Hebrew, first with original melodies and then with alternative melodies like the Adams Family and one by Beach Boys. It was funny to hear profane and religion mixed this way, but nice that it's allowed to play in Judaism (though I don't know what the rabbis would say to it).
When we biked through the orthodox area going there, a lot of Jews dressed in traditional black coats and big hats or golden holiday robes muttered "shabeeesh!" after us, which is shabbat in Yiddish, and by that they meant we were not allowed to bike on a shabbat. Also the traficlights in the area were shut down and the roads blocked by police fences, so nobody would break the shabbat and drive a car in the area. I think it's too restrictive, but let them do it if it makes them happy.
Wednesday 6 April 2011
Amenian Tavern
We met with some friends visiting Jerusalem and went to an Armenian restaurent in the Old City. It's down in a basement so it doesn't look like much from the outside (as is normal for houses in the Old City), but inside is a big "cave" filled with Armenian Christian stuff and arts and crafts. 
We had a mix of Armenian dishes (of course I've forgotten the names of them, but they were very tasty) and tried the Armenian dessert saussage made of grapefruit-gel and walnuts. We all looked very suspiciously at it when it was served, but it was actually very tasty.
Afterwards we went on a night stroll in the Old City, almost empty of all the people and bazaars and tourists and junk of the daytime. I was proud of myself that I could find my way around in the maze that is the Old City, and both A and I got to answer questions from our friends about the city and islam and judaism and christianity.
The very pleasant evening took a bad ending, when A and I came back to our bikes and found them punctured by the guy living behind the door close to where we had put them, and a "gang" of 3 guys waiting for us. The man living there was very angry and yelled a lot of us and tried to get a fight, but we managed to escape with some "we're sorry"s and "we won't do it again"s. This part of Jerusalem/Israel/Palestine I don't like; that people think it's ok to damage other people's things, because they think the others did something wrong.
We had a mix of Armenian dishes (of course I've forgotten the names of them, but they were very tasty) and tried the Armenian dessert saussage made of grapefruit-gel and walnuts. We all looked very suspiciously at it when it was served, but it was actually very tasty.
Afterwards we went on a night stroll in the Old City, almost empty of all the people and bazaars and tourists and junk of the daytime. I was proud of myself that I could find my way around in the maze that is the Old City, and both A and I got to answer questions from our friends about the city and islam and judaism and christianity.The very pleasant evening took a bad ending, when A and I came back to our bikes and found them punctured by the guy living behind the door close to where we had put them, and a "gang" of 3 guys waiting for us. The man living there was very angry and yelled a lot of us and tried to get a fight, but we managed to escape with some "we're sorry"s and "we won't do it again"s. This part of Jerusalem/Israel/Palestine I don't like; that people think it's ok to damage other people's things, because they think the others did something wrong.
Tuesday 5 April 2011
Maundy Thursday Choir
This evening I joined a first rehersal of a choir, which is going to sing on Maundy Thursday (skærtorsdag) in the Redeemer Church and then walk to the Mountain of Olives (to commemorate where Jesus walked and were betrayed).
The songs of course were connected to Easter and its story, but I was amazed how good the amateur singers were. I managed to sing the alto voice, but mainly because I could listen to the ladies around me.
Here's a link to one of the songs we're going to sing.
The songs of course were connected to Easter and its story, but I was amazed how good the amateur singers were. I managed to sing the alto voice, but mainly because I could listen to the ladies around me.
Here's a link to one of the songs we're going to sing.
Monday 4 April 2011
Poetry Slam
Tonight was poetry slam night at the American Cultural Center in Jerusalem. We showed up to see what it was about, and had a wonderfully crazy evening with laid back people (mainly Americans). There was free popcorn and coffee/ tea, but most importently free wine, cus everybody knows poetry is best enjoyed with a glass of wine.
The two "proper" contesters reading aloud, one in Hebrew
and the other translating to English.
There were only two contesters, so the MC/ confrencier also joined. Though he still more or less ran the show with his welcome-song, choosing-the-judges-song, and the great spontaneous-haiku-song. All very silly and very funny.
The MC singing his spontaneous-haiku song. The winning poem of this round was:
Oh no what is this
I don't know how to do it
Oh shit I did it
Oh, and the American Center has a lending library! As in we can go there and borrow books and DVDs! And sit there and read. This is one of the things I've missed in Jerusalem.
The two "proper" contesters reading aloud, one in Hebrewand the other translating to English.
There were only two contesters, so the MC/ confrencier also joined. Though he still more or less ran the show with his welcome-song, choosing-the-judges-song, and the great spontaneous-haiku-song. All very silly and very funny.
The MC singing his spontaneous-haiku song. The winning poem of this round was:Oh no what is this
I don't know how to do it
Oh shit I did it
Oh, and the American Center has a lending library! As in we can go there and borrow books and DVDs! And sit there and read. This is one of the things I've missed in Jerusalem.
Sunday 3 April 2011
Old City with old friend
I met up today with a British friend whom I met in Cairo two years ago (time's flying!).
We wandered around the Old City looking for things to see, and just enjoying the atmosphere and a falafel sandwich, together with her group of musicians. They are going to Nablus to give folk music and dancing workshops at the newly established ESNCM branch there. I might go there during the next week while they are there and listen and maybe join. There's always fun happening around her!
We wandered around the Old City looking for things to see, and just enjoying the atmosphere and a falafel sandwich, together with her group of musicians. They are going to Nablus to give folk music and dancing workshops at the newly established ESNCM branch there. I might go there during the next week while they are there and listen and maybe join. There's always fun happening around her!
Saturday 2 April 2011
Tel Aviv on a shabbat
Today we celebrated that we've been married for three months by biking to Tel Aviv (60km, 800m down) and spending theday there. We thought of going all the way on highway 1, but got stopped by a police officer, who told us we were not allowed to bike on the highway... We kinda knew that, but today was shabbat and that means not many cars on the roads (observant Jews are not allowed to drive on shabbat).
The landscape on the way to Tel Aviv almost look Danish.
So we found another route - which was actually more scenic, which was nice - and after 4 hours we were in Tel Aviv, and headed straight for the beach and the water. Oh how wonderful to swim again, and for free! The beaches there are public (as opposed to around Lake Kinneret, and the indoor pools in Jerusalem for 35-50 shekels each time). Lunch at the beach, and then one more swim, just because we could and it's wonderful.
We biked around the city and it's small. Tried to find the Botanical Gardens, but the were behind closed gates. But we found the Wolfnights Chef Burger bar, where we had a bacon-and-cheese burger! Very non-kosher; bacon is not kosher, milk products and meat together is not kosher and the place was open on a shabbat!) - but we enjoyed it very much!
Preparing the burger - note the vampire-smiley at the corner of his dish! ^^
We rested on a lawn for half an hour before going on the the Immanuel Church of Jaffa to listen to an organ concert on the Book of Job played by a Danish guy we had met in Jerusalem at the Church. It's composed in the 1970's by Egil Hovland and is so modern that it uses cacaphony more than harmony... Between the seven movements were readings from the Book of Job - in Hebrew, but I found an English Bible so I could follow the story.
It was nice to meet the Danish priest in Tel Aviv and his family, and to say hello to the people we already new.
Last trip was to the New Central Bus Station in Tel Aviv, which is big and grey and ugly, but we managed to find our platform 607 on the 6th floor and get on the bus back to Jerusalem, despite many warnings that this bus station is very confusing and non-logical. But I still think it's weird to have 6th floor on a bus station, and busses departing from there!
All in all a wonderful day!
The landscape on the way to Tel Aviv almost look Danish.So we found another route - which was actually more scenic, which was nice - and after 4 hours we were in Tel Aviv, and headed straight for the beach and the water. Oh how wonderful to swim again, and for free! The beaches there are public (as opposed to around Lake Kinneret, and the indoor pools in Jerusalem for 35-50 shekels each time). Lunch at the beach, and then one more swim, just because we could and it's wonderful.
We biked around the city and it's small. Tried to find the Botanical Gardens, but the were behind closed gates. But we found the Wolfnights Chef Burger bar, where we had a bacon-and-cheese burger! Very non-kosher; bacon is not kosher, milk products and meat together is not kosher and the place was open on a shabbat!) - but we enjoyed it very much!
Preparing the burger - note the vampire-smiley at the corner of his dish! ^^We rested on a lawn for half an hour before going on the the Immanuel Church of Jaffa to listen to an organ concert on the Book of Job played by a Danish guy we had met in Jerusalem at the Church. It's composed in the 1970's by Egil Hovland and is so modern that it uses cacaphony more than harmony... Between the seven movements were readings from the Book of Job - in Hebrew, but I found an English Bible so I could follow the story.
It was nice to meet the Danish priest in Tel Aviv and his family, and to say hello to the people we already new.
Last trip was to the New Central Bus Station in Tel Aviv, which is big and grey and ugly, but we managed to find our platform 607 on the 6th floor and get on the bus back to Jerusalem, despite many warnings that this bus station is very confusing and non-logical. But I still think it's weird to have 6th floor on a bus station, and busses departing from there!
All in all a wonderful day!
Friday 1 April 2011
Daylight saving time
Tonight, between the thursday the 31st of March and friday the 1st of April, Israel also switched to daylight saving time, a week later than Denmark. Why it had to be on the night of a work day is a good question - maybe because Jews are not allowed to set their watches on a shabbat (between friday and saturday)?
Street art clock from Tel Aviv
Street art clock from Tel AvivMonday 28 March 2011
Yad be-Yad school
Today I went to a very special school: It's called Yad be-Yad, which means "hand in hand" in both Arabic and Hebrew. They have both Arabic and Jewish students, starting with the same number of each in the first grade. During the first year the class is taught by both an Arabic speaking and a Hebrew speaking teacher, which means the kids are fairly fluent in bith languages after a year. After that, each teacher teaches in his or her native language, so the kids/ students get to practise both.
It has a wonderful atmosphere, and I couldn't tell which kids were Jewish and which were Arabic. They are taught to accept each other's different opinions, even when they don't agree. They do discuss the conflict, and celebrate both the Israeli Independence Day (a very happy day for the Jews) and al-nakba, the catastrophe, as the Arabs call the birthday of the Israeli state. Of course they also face problems from both side of the society, and only children of moderate parents who think it's a good idea go there. But I hope this project will have many more schools with many students around the country, so some of all the prejudices and hate can disapper when kids play together and become friends.
Read more about the project here.
It has a wonderful atmosphere, and I couldn't tell which kids were Jewish and which were Arabic. They are taught to accept each other's different opinions, even when they don't agree. They do discuss the conflict, and celebrate both the Israeli Independence Day (a very happy day for the Jews) and al-nakba, the catastrophe, as the Arabs call the birthday of the Israeli state. Of course they also face problems from both side of the society, and only children of moderate parents who think it's a good idea go there. But I hope this project will have many more schools with many students around the country, so some of all the prejudices and hate can disapper when kids play together and become friends.
Read more about the project here.
Sunday 27 March 2011
We've got visa!
Long process with getting all the papers; letter from A's university stating he's studying there for the next year, economical statement, and especially our marriage cetificate in English took some time and effort (first one lost in the mail between DK and Jerusalem, then one fax that didn't work, finally we could pick it up at the Danish Consulate in Jerusalem - spending only an hour trying to find our way in the Technology Park).
The vogon said we still needed some papers, but talked to some collegues and finally she accepted us (though she looked like we have offended her just by showing up and asking her help).
So now we're allowed to stay for the next year, to leave and to return. Wonderful!
The vogon said we still needed some papers, but talked to some collegues and finally she accepted us (though she looked like we have offended her just by showing up and asking her help).
So now we're allowed to stay for the next year, to leave and to return. Wonderful!
Saturday 26 March 2011
Small trip to Bethlehem
The French Cultural Centre in Bethlehem held an exhibition opening of Contemporary French art through the last decade, and that was a good excuse for us to go there. It took an hour by bike each way (would probably have taken longer in bus), and it was easier to get through the car checkpoint than through the pedestrian one (not so many fences and no bag scanning).
Little Town of Bethlehem - where you can still meet a flock of sheep in the street.
The exhibition was nice, but the food was just as great... Contemporary art is sometimes just too strange for me. But I recognised a "picture" with luminosity curves for pulsationg stars, which amused me and made me think about my big gymnasium paper on Cephid variable stars.
Afterwards we spend the eveing at the Bethlehem Peace Centre Bar talking with friends and finally listening to Arabic music, 3oud and violin, and also some singing. Nice and relaxed eveing, and thanks for the company!
Little Town of Bethlehem - where you can still meet a flock of sheep in the street.The exhibition was nice, but the food was just as great... Contemporary art is sometimes just too strange for me. But I recognised a "picture" with luminosity curves for pulsationg stars, which amused me and made me think about my big gymnasium paper on Cephid variable stars.
Afterwards we spend the eveing at the Bethlehem Peace Centre Bar talking with friends and finally listening to Arabic music, 3oud and violin, and also some singing. Nice and relaxed eveing, and thanks for the company!
Son of Hamas
I've read "Son of Hamas" ("Søn af Hamas" in Danish) by Mousab Hassan Yousef the past two days. It's easily read, if one doesn't get too full of hearing about his experiences with death and terror and torture and hate. It's a true story, the author is son of Hassan Yousef, one of the founders of Hamas, and therefore he was a crownprince in Hamas. But he got hired by the Israeli intelligence service Shin Bet, and over 10 years he helped preventing terror attacks planned by Hamas. Over time he also converted from Islam to Christianity.
It was a bit weird to read about some of the places I now know in Jerusalem; the bombing of a pizzaria on the corner of King George and Yafo (downtown Jerusalem with the main shopping streets), the bombing at the Hebrew University (I've seen the memory plate there next to Frank Sinatra building), and also I now can place Ramallah and Kinneret. It happened here and not so long time ago.
I highly recommend everybody to read it. It gives another view on the conflict, as seen from both Palestinians and Israelis on the same time, and might give hope that others like Musab want to end the conflict rather than keeping it going.
Thursday 24 March 2011
Bomb?!
"Are you ok?"
"Yes.
What's happening?"
And that was how I heard about the bomb in Jerusalem, my Dad in DK (almost) being the first to tell me. A had called just 5 minutes before (the oversea students had been counted at the univeristy to make sure everybody was ok, which is nice).
The busstation is the same one we left from for our Galilee trip, so I know it - but we have our bikes and don't normally go by bus; now we have one more reason to like our bikes. ;)
Some people say it's the start of the third intifada, others say the third intifada should be non-violent, and I just hope everybody stops killing each other. The city is nice, and I have seen that people here do live side by side. They still need to trust each other, and things like this is no good for that. But maybe just talk to your neighbour. Please.
"Yes.
What's happening?"
And that was how I heard about the bomb in Jerusalem, my Dad in DK (almost) being the first to tell me. A had called just 5 minutes before (the oversea students had been counted at the univeristy to make sure everybody was ok, which is nice).
The busstation is the same one we left from for our Galilee trip, so I know it - but we have our bikes and don't normally go by bus; now we have one more reason to like our bikes. ;)
Some people say it's the start of the third intifada, others say the third intifada should be non-violent, and I just hope everybody stops killing each other. The city is nice, and I have seen that people here do live side by side. They still need to trust each other, and things like this is no good for that. But maybe just talk to your neighbour. Please.
Nostalgia
Been playing Master of Orion II most of the day.
...the weather is just for keeping indoor with hot chocolate, listening to the rain pouring down outside.
And the house is not well insolated, so our electric heater is on max power. Apparently this is cheaper then solar power. (Well, solar power might be scares when it rains...)
...the weather is just for keeping indoor with hot chocolate, listening to the rain pouring down outside.
And the house is not well insolated, so our electric heater is on max power. Apparently this is cheaper then solar power. (Well, solar power might be scares when it rains...)
Monday 21 March 2011
Purim and colourful people
Today is Purim Holiday in Jerusalem (it's a walled city and therefore the Purim falls a day after everywhere else...), the festival were Jews dress up and celebrate that Haman, who wanted to destroy the Jewish people, was defeated by Queen Ester and her uncle Mordechai, as writtin in the Book of Ester. This is done by drinking a lot of wine and eating (because the victory was done through a lot of banquetts with the king), bringing presents to each other, often on big trays or dishes.
I went on a bus through the city (my legs and behind didn't want to bike after our 3 day trip to Galilee) and was amazed by all the people dressed up, not only kids but every one! I saw lots of princesses and animals (these were mainly the younger ones), but also Darth Vader, a Viking with horns on the helmet and long, blonde braids, angels (black and white), monsters, or people just wearing a funny hat or wig or Hawaii necklace.
I didn't get to take any pictures, but Kristeliigt Dagblad has a good series of pictures from Puirm, find it here.
I went on a bus through the city (my legs and behind didn't want to bike after our 3 day trip to Galilee) and was amazed by all the people dressed up, not only kids but every one! I saw lots of princesses and animals (these were mainly the younger ones), but also Darth Vader, a Viking with horns on the helmet and long, blonde braids, angels (black and white), monsters, or people just wearing a funny hat or wig or Hawaii necklace.
I didn't get to take any pictures, but Kristeliigt Dagblad has a good series of pictures from Puirm, find it here.
Sunday 20 March 2011
Bike trip to Galilee - day 3
We started the day with listening to a Christian service down at the lake's shore. They sang on the melody for "Dejlig er Jorden", a pilgrimsong. Very beautiful in the morning light.
Our first detour on our way around Lake Kinneret was a up on the Mount of Beatitudes (where Jesus is believed to have given his speech "blessed are the..."). There's a relatively new Italian church, a monestry and a wonderful garden, even moreprety right now with all the flowers.
We had found a map at the hostel with smaller biking and hiking paths than what our own map had. We tried to find these biking paths, but apparently they had gone, maybe because of the rain season. So in the Jordan River delta we faced a lot of mud and paths washed away - or just blocked by trees.
After lunch we took the main road to feel we did move. Then we tried to find yet another bike path on the map, and ended up climping a hill of the Golan Heights, on a path which was overgrown with flowers.
But it was maybe the most beautiful view we got from the top, and there were so many different colourful flowers and plants. We could se the city of Tiberias on the other side of the lake, the mountains behind, and see to both the north and south end of the lake.
We caught a bus from the south tip of the lake back to Jerusalem. We would have liked a swim before going on the bus, but all the beaches were private and locked up. So all our fellow passengers had the "pleasure" to share our odour of 3 days hard work in the sun.
Back home with sore legs the treat was bacon! I'm pretty proud of us, it was a tough trip, but really wonderful!
Our first detour on our way around Lake Kinneret was a up on the Mount of Beatitudes (where Jesus is believed to have given his speech "blessed are the..."). There's a relatively new Italian church, a monestry and a wonderful garden, even moreprety right now with all the flowers.
We had found a map at the hostel with smaller biking and hiking paths than what our own map had. We tried to find these biking paths, but apparently they had gone, maybe because of the rain season. So in the Jordan River delta we faced a lot of mud and paths washed away - or just blocked by trees.
After lunch we took the main road to feel we did move. Then we tried to find yet another bike path on the map, and ended up climping a hill of the Golan Heights, on a path which was overgrown with flowers.
But it was maybe the most beautiful view we got from the top, and there were so many different colourful flowers and plants. We could se the city of Tiberias on the other side of the lake, the mountains behind, and see to both the north and south end of the lake.
We caught a bus from the south tip of the lake back to Jerusalem. We would have liked a swim before going on the bus, but all the beaches were private and locked up. So all our fellow passengers had the "pleasure" to share our odour of 3 days hard work in the sun.Back home with sore legs the treat was bacon! I'm pretty proud of us, it was a tough trip, but really wonderful!
Saturday 19 March 2011
Bike trip to Galilee - day 2
Getting out of Nazareth onto the biking path we had seen on the map was almost as difficult as finding our way in. But on the way we passed a butcher - who sold pork! Or more important: bacon!
We found something that could be the biking path, got a bit lost, but ended up in the right direction. We went on parts of the Jesus Trail, a hiking route from Nazareth to Capernaum, and a very beautiful one on mountains and lots of green nature - and right now also with loads of flowers.
We came out of the mountains and drove down a main road to Lake Kinneret (also known as the Sea of Galilee) - down from above sea level to 200m below sea level at the lake's shore. Our legs got some rest from all the climbing, and I enjoyed the speed and the gorgeous view over the lake and the mountains.
We spottet a fruit plantage and "accidentially" some grapefruit fell down in our hands, and we had to eat them. Nice and juicy - and a welcome variation from all the water we had to drink (the Sun was baking us; thanks to time of year and the light clouds that it wasn't hotter!).
We arrived at the Karei Deshe Hostel, where they had failed to find a receptionist for the day, and the sleepy cousin was put on the job instead. The place looked wonderful - almost too much for us - but the service was non-existing. Though, we got our room and food, and a dip in the lake.
We found something that could be the biking path, got a bit lost, but ended up in the right direction. We went on parts of the Jesus Trail, a hiking route from Nazareth to Capernaum, and a very beautiful one on mountains and lots of green nature - and right now also with loads of flowers.
We came out of the mountains and drove down a main road to Lake Kinneret (also known as the Sea of Galilee) - down from above sea level to 200m below sea level at the lake's shore. Our legs got some rest from all the climbing, and I enjoyed the speed and the gorgeous view over the lake and the mountains.
We spottet a fruit plantage and "accidentially" some grapefruit fell down in our hands, and we had to eat them. Nice and juicy - and a welcome variation from all the water we had to drink (the Sun was baking us; thanks to time of year and the light clouds that it wasn't hotter!).We arrived at the Karei Deshe Hostel, where they had failed to find a receptionist for the day, and the sleepy cousin was put on the job instead. The place looked wonderful - almost too much for us - but the service was non-existing. Though, we got our room and food, and a dip in the lake.
Friday 18 March 2011
Bike trip to Galilee - day 1
With the bus at 7am from Jerusalem, which dropped us off in Beit She'an at two hours later.
We biked up into the Gilboa Mountains, climbing 400m up over 15km in 2hours. Tough work, but the view from the top was gorgeous. An Israeli soldier pointed out Mount Hermon for us.
After lunch in the green forrest amongst flowers of every colour and shape we free wheeled down from the mountains, heading for Nazareth. We managed to get lost in a city we had to pass through before we could look up to Nazareth. And start another 300m climp up to the city.
We had a bit of problems finding our way in the city (or road atlas is not detailed enough for city navigation), but we finally arrived at the Old City and Fauzi Azar Inn and was greatly welcomed.
After a wonderful shower we rested with a cup of coffee/tea and cake in the beautiful hall of Fauzi, before hunting for food in Nazareth. We feared it would be closed for Shabbat, but mainly Arabs (Christians and Muslims) live in Nazareth, so we had no problems in finding a place. We also listened to a Greek Orthodox Mass in St. Gabriel's Church, in Arabic! I got the text and could follow it, and we both enjoyed the music and to see how the church got more and more full of people joining.
We biked up into the Gilboa Mountains, climbing 400m up over 15km in 2hours. Tough work, but the view from the top was gorgeous. An Israeli soldier pointed out Mount Hermon for us.
After lunch in the green forrest amongst flowers of every colour and shape we free wheeled down from the mountains, heading for Nazareth. We managed to get lost in a city we had to pass through before we could look up to Nazareth. And start another 300m climp up to the city.
We had a bit of problems finding our way in the city (or road atlas is not detailed enough for city navigation), but we finally arrived at the Old City and Fauzi Azar Inn and was greatly welcomed.
After a wonderful shower we rested with a cup of coffee/tea and cake in the beautiful hall of Fauzi, before hunting for food in Nazareth. We feared it would be closed for Shabbat, but mainly Arabs (Christians and Muslims) live in Nazareth, so we had no problems in finding a place. We also listened to a Greek Orthodox Mass in St. Gabriel's Church, in Arabic! I got the text and could follow it, and we both enjoyed the music and to see how the church got more and more full of people joining.
Wednesday 16 March 2011
The art of drinking and Purim
Tonight A and I attended a "Pizza Talk" at the Hebrew University (though I don't have security clearing to go there, the guards let me in after seeing my passport and the poster I had for the event and some talks and smiles from both me and A) about what this Purim Holiday coming up on Sunday and Monday is about.
I had heard that this is the day in the year where Jews are supposed to get drunk, and most do so. This is a bit weird, normally religions don't encourage their followers to drink. But the rabbi tonight explained why. Purim is a holiday to celebrate a miracle in Persia, as it is told in the Book of Ester - grab your Bible and read it, it's actually quite fun and not so long. The short of the story is that the king's councellor Haman wants to kill all the Jews, because Mordecai the Jew doesn't want to bow down to him. But Mordecai's (apodted) daughter is Ester, whom the king has just taken as his Queen. Queen Ester asks of the king to not slay his people and he grants this, and the same time he orders Haman hanged in the gallows he had built to hang Mordecai from.
But why drink wine "until you cannot tell the difference between Mordecai's blessing and Haman's curse", as one of the old rabbis put it? Because this "miracle" was done through wine drinking - the king, Ester and Haman was eating and drinking for all their meetings - and therefore Jews should do the same; but only to get merry and fall asleep, not get so drunk that they accidentially kill their friend (there're not so many getting revived these days).
And the day before Purim is a day of fasting, because Ester and Mordecai was fasting - but if this fast would fall on a shabbat, then it's the day before; and since shabbat starts on friday evening, this year the Fast of Ester is on (tomorrow) Thursday.
The kids get dressed up for Purim (like Danish kids do for Fastelavn),
and there's a lots of sweet, coloured cakes. This part I hope to see more
of on Sunday/Monday.
I had heard that this is the day in the year where Jews are supposed to get drunk, and most do so. This is a bit weird, normally religions don't encourage their followers to drink. But the rabbi tonight explained why. Purim is a holiday to celebrate a miracle in Persia, as it is told in the Book of Ester - grab your Bible and read it, it's actually quite fun and not so long. The short of the story is that the king's councellor Haman wants to kill all the Jews, because Mordecai the Jew doesn't want to bow down to him. But Mordecai's (apodted) daughter is Ester, whom the king has just taken as his Queen. Queen Ester asks of the king to not slay his people and he grants this, and the same time he orders Haman hanged in the gallows he had built to hang Mordecai from.
But why drink wine "until you cannot tell the difference between Mordecai's blessing and Haman's curse", as one of the old rabbis put it? Because this "miracle" was done through wine drinking - the king, Ester and Haman was eating and drinking for all their meetings - and therefore Jews should do the same; but only to get merry and fall asleep, not get so drunk that they accidentially kill their friend (there're not so many getting revived these days).
And the day before Purim is a day of fasting, because Ester and Mordecai was fasting - but if this fast would fall on a shabbat, then it's the day before; and since shabbat starts on friday evening, this year the Fast of Ester is on (tomorrow) Thursday.
The kids get dressed up for Purim (like Danish kids do for Fastelavn),and there's a lots of sweet, coloured cakes. This part I hope to see more
of on Sunday/Monday.
Tuesday 15 March 2011
Arabic literature
I found some interesting courses on Al-Quds University on Arabic literature that I want to join. I just have to decide what I want the most; Jahiliya poetry, Palestinian literature, children's literature, Abbasid or Ummayid or Andalusi poetry, or one of the 30 other courses from their BA programme. Next question is if I can follow the classes in Arabic, I'm not sure I can understand so much. But I want to taste different parts and genres of Arabic literature, and I need a teacher to tell me what is good and what is meant. And I would also like to have classmates.
I also came to think of those nonsense poems/stories, I wanted to make. Then I have something to draw! So time to hook up with Hans Wehr and see what I can find. It's not going to be as eloquent as the poem below, but I like playing with words.
I also came to think of those nonsense poems/stories, I wanted to make. Then I have something to draw! So time to hook up with Hans Wehr and see what I can find. It's not going to be as eloquent as the poem below, but I like playing with words.
Monday 14 March 2011
Danish hygge
The Danish priest and his wife had invited us over for dinner and "hygge" tonight, and it was nice to get inside a home with lots of books - many of them belonging to the church, but we were more than welcome to borrow them, so now "Son og Hamas" by Musab Hassan Yousef lies on my bed table - with a comfortable inside temperature, because their two girls shouldn't freeze, and get food in Danish style. It's a very musical family; the priest playing the guitar (also at services), his wife playing piano, and their oldest daughter (5) sang a Purim song in Hebrew for us - very cute, though she didn't know what it was about, she just knew the words.
The priest showed us a video about the conflict in Israel between Messianic Jews (who believes that Jesus in the Messiah, but they are NOT Christians) and the Ultra-orthodox Jews, who accuse the Messianic Jews for being undercover Christians, who want to carry out Hitler's mission to destroy all the Jews; because getting a Jew to convert to something else is like killing a Jewish soul. The video can be found here.
The priest showed us a video about the conflict in Israel between Messianic Jews (who believes that Jesus in the Messiah, but they are NOT Christians) and the Ultra-orthodox Jews, who accuse the Messianic Jews for being undercover Christians, who want to carry out Hitler's mission to destroy all the Jews; because getting a Jew to convert to something else is like killing a Jewish soul. The video can be found here.
Saturday 12 March 2011
Danish service in the Old City
Today we went to the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer in the Old City to attend a service in Danish by the Danish priest living here. It was funny to be among Danes again, most from Jutland as I could hear on their dialects - Denmark is a small country, but we still have many dialects; no wonder Arabic has so many then!
The chapel with small alter, glass mosaic, and screen with texts and psalms.
The ceremony was held in a chapel, not the main church (which would have been way too big), complete with Danish Psalm books for everybody, an organist (though on piano), and communion. What was special compared to cermons held in Danmark was that everybody introduced themselves in the beginning, because so many different people come every time; the projector with texts and psalm numbers; and the priest played guitar for some of the English prayer-songs. I didn't get a picture of him, but imagine a priest in white robes with a purple "scarf" with Jerusalem crosses on it, with a good ol' guitar.
The tower of the church as seen from the court yard - a very calm place,
when there's not a flock of children running around after candy.
Afterwards there was coffee/tea and biscuits out in the hall, and I got to talk with a nun, who has lived in Jerusalem for 45 years, knows Hebrew, both modern and Biblical, Arabic, Ethiopian, Aramaeic, besides Danish and English, and probably some more I didn't catch. Apparently she makes icons and sell them, teach languages, and right now work for the University in Copenhagen on editing a dictionary for Ethiopian (which is called something else). A very interesting lady indeed! I forgot her name, but will post it later when I get it.
The chapel with small alter, glass mosaic, and screen with texts and psalms.The ceremony was held in a chapel, not the main church (which would have been way too big), complete with Danish Psalm books for everybody, an organist (though on piano), and communion. What was special compared to cermons held in Danmark was that everybody introduced themselves in the beginning, because so many different people come every time; the projector with texts and psalm numbers; and the priest played guitar for some of the English prayer-songs. I didn't get a picture of him, but imagine a priest in white robes with a purple "scarf" with Jerusalem crosses on it, with a good ol' guitar.
The tower of the church as seen from the court yard - a very calm place,when there's not a flock of children running around after candy.
Afterwards there was coffee/tea and biscuits out in the hall, and I got to talk with a nun, who has lived in Jerusalem for 45 years, knows Hebrew, both modern and Biblical, Arabic, Ethiopian, Aramaeic, besides Danish and English, and probably some more I didn't catch. Apparently she makes icons and sell them, teach languages, and right now work for the University in Copenhagen on editing a dictionary for Ethiopian (which is called something else). A very interesting lady indeed! I forgot her name, but will post it later when I get it.
Friday 11 March 2011
My first concert with HarEl
Today I played my first concert in Jerusalem with the Israeli wind band HarEl, that A got me in touch with. It was a concert on a school for children aged 6 to 12, where girls and boys are divided to seperate classes and areas - and therefore we played two concerts, first for the girls and then for the boys.
In the hall - I liked the decorations on the walls (not so clear in this picture).
We played a variety of music to show the children the different instruments (Pink Panter on saxophone, Trumpeter's Lullaby, drum-solo in Sing Sing), and hopefully they've been inspired to start playing themselves. Though at home in Greve when I've attended this kind of music-promotion, the children had a chance of trying the instruments afterwards, and we didn't do that today - maybe because there were so many children. I fled the hall during the break, it was way too noisy for me, even with my earplugs; and it was not only the children's sreaming talk, but also my fellow musicians who contributed to the noise.
Once again I was reminded how well we've been brought up in the music school in Greve; to not play in the breaks so our ears can rest from all the sound, to play not only notes but also give them full and nice sound so the music is worth listening to (I even saw some of the kids, who're used to this way-too-high level of noise, stick their fingers in their ears, because the sound was bad), not to sms during the concert - and other small stuff like this.
But the kids were cute, I especially wanted to take one red-haired girl with me home, she was adorable! The girls were mainly in pink and purple colours, the boys in blue and black - and every one of the boys had a kippa on, some also the four set of strings coming out from under their clothes, that their more religious fathers and uncles also wear.
In the hall - I liked the decorations on the walls (not so clear in this picture).We played a variety of music to show the children the different instruments (Pink Panter on saxophone, Trumpeter's Lullaby, drum-solo in Sing Sing), and hopefully they've been inspired to start playing themselves. Though at home in Greve when I've attended this kind of music-promotion, the children had a chance of trying the instruments afterwards, and we didn't do that today - maybe because there were so many children. I fled the hall during the break, it was way too noisy for me, even with my earplugs; and it was not only the children's sreaming talk, but also my fellow musicians who contributed to the noise.
Once again I was reminded how well we've been brought up in the music school in Greve; to not play in the breaks so our ears can rest from all the sound, to play not only notes but also give them full and nice sound so the music is worth listening to (I even saw some of the kids, who're used to this way-too-high level of noise, stick their fingers in their ears, because the sound was bad), not to sms during the concert - and other small stuff like this.
But the kids were cute, I especially wanted to take one red-haired girl with me home, she was adorable! The girls were mainly in pink and purple colours, the boys in blue and black - and every one of the boys had a kippa on, some also the four set of strings coming out from under their clothes, that their more religious fathers and uncles also wear.
Thursday 10 March 2011
Visa Electron
Yay! We've finally gotten cards so we can draw money without paying this stupidly large amount in fee to our Danish banks every time. The trick is to create an account in a local bank, transfer a lot of money to it when the currency exchange rate is favorable (and pay the transfer fee as few times as possible), and the get cards for this account.
But I had hoped for a regular Visa card, not a Visa Electron - which for me is something teenagers get because they otherwise would spend all their money too quickly on nothing. Anyway, it's good to have.
But I had hoped for a regular Visa card, not a Visa Electron - which for me is something teenagers get because they otherwise would spend all their money too quickly on nothing. Anyway, it's good to have.
Wednesday 9 March 2011
Arabic poetry night
The French Culturel Centre and the Educational Bookshop arranged an evening for Arabic poetry. Three poets were supposed to come, but only one made it - and he read aloud from some of his poems in FusHa, The Most Eloquent Arabic. I didn't understand much, except the main theme of each poem, but I enjoyed the sound of the language. And was amused when he switched to Palestinian dialect to introduce the next poem or talk with the audience.
The poet reciting one of his poems.
After a short break came a man with his 3oud and played and sang for us. He played the 3oud differently from what I have come to know as Arabic style with lots of ornamentations, rather he used harmony (though the transarent, thin kind) and few, pure notes. The audience wished for some songs, and sang along on the refrain, a very sweet habit I also experienced in Cairo.
The exit was through the Educational Bookshop, and of course we had to stop and look at all the tempting books. We managed to only bring one home, on Naji al-Ali and his cartoon character Hanthala. (Take a look here to read about al-Ali and Hanthala.)
The poet reciting one of his poems. After a short break came a man with his 3oud and played and sang for us. He played the 3oud differently from what I have come to know as Arabic style with lots of ornamentations, rather he used harmony (though the transarent, thin kind) and few, pure notes. The audience wished for some songs, and sang along on the refrain, a very sweet habit I also experienced in Cairo.
The exit was through the Educational Bookshop, and of course we had to stop and look at all the tempting books. We managed to only bring one home, on Naji al-Ali and his cartoon character Hanthala. (Take a look here to read about al-Ali and Hanthala.)
Monday 7 March 2011
Power yoga in Hebrew
I went with A to his yoga lesson in the Sports Complex next to the Hebrew University tonight. It was not the same as I had tried in Ramallah, not at all. In Ramallah we focused on breathing and slow movements, streching, feeling comfortable. Here we jumped and stretched and got all sweaty. And tried to levitate - well, balancing on the front of one foot, while sitting with crossed legs on top of it... I couldn't do it, but I think this might be a way the Indian yoga masters might have seemed to levitate.
There were windows to the room next to, where all the big fitness machines were, each with its own TV screen, so the one exercising could be entertained in his or her own way. Not a temple for the worship of God, but for worship of the body. Which is good, it's nice to exercise. But a bit too much for me like this.
There were windows to the room next to, where all the big fitness machines were, each with its own TV screen, so the one exercising could be entertained in his or her own way. Not a temple for the worship of God, but for worship of the body. Which is good, it's nice to exercise. But a bit too much for me like this.
Sunday 6 March 2011
Ammunition Hill
The Ammunition Hill is just next to where we live, and today we went there to figure out what it was about. I expected a museum, as in the closed type inside a building of some sort, but this was open ground also. It's commemorating the Six Day war in June 1967, where Israel concured the rest of Jerusalem from Jordan (and whiped out Egypt's air force, and beated Syria too) after it had been divided for 19 years after the "War of Independence" in 1948. We joined in on a lecture and a movie next to the model of Jerusalem; the movie was very well done in the way that it showed with coloured and moving light on the 3D model of Jerusalem which areas which army held, where the Municipality Border was during the 19 years, and how the forces moved during the Six Day War.
I was a bit surprised to feel so... bad about seeing soliders and gunfire and tanks in a city that's not mine, but which I think I know it by now, even thought the pictures were in black and white. In Denmark we're so used to peace, last time we had war in our country was in 1864 (if we don't count the occupation in 1940-5), so this is the closest I've come to know how people feel, when they see their homes and city destroyed by war.
In the actual museum were, among other things, biographies of all the soldiers, who had fallen in the Six Day War. They were both on interactive screens (only in Hebrew) and on big metal plates as the ones in the picture above. I can't figure out if I think it's repulsive or nice with all these commemorations (not only here but all over the city), but the repulsive might be the aspects of war and extremism (wanting to kill the enemy and/or die for your contry), the nice part that other people remember them.
There also was a collection of rockets of the time, with describtions on the plates on how much TNT they carried, how heavy they were, how long they could reach, and other useful informations...
I'm happy to be a Dane, who don't need to think about war and despair and loosing my home. But I also want to visit a Palestinian museum about the Six Day war and see how they tell the story - only I don't think there is such a museum.
I was a bit surprised to feel so... bad about seeing soliders and gunfire and tanks in a city that's not mine, but which I think I know it by now, even thought the pictures were in black and white. In Denmark we're so used to peace, last time we had war in our country was in 1864 (if we don't count the occupation in 1940-5), so this is the closest I've come to know how people feel, when they see their homes and city destroyed by war.
In the actual museum were, among other things, biographies of all the soldiers, who had fallen in the Six Day War. They were both on interactive screens (only in Hebrew) and on big metal plates as the ones in the picture above. I can't figure out if I think it's repulsive or nice with all these commemorations (not only here but all over the city), but the repulsive might be the aspects of war and extremism (wanting to kill the enemy and/or die for your contry), the nice part that other people remember them.
There also was a collection of rockets of the time, with describtions on the plates on how much TNT they carried, how heavy they were, how long they could reach, and other useful informations...I'm happy to be a Dane, who don't need to think about war and despair and loosing my home. But I also want to visit a Palestinian museum about the Six Day war and see how they tell the story - only I don't think there is such a museum.
Friday 4 March 2011
Saba for sadness
My 3oud teacher have told me to practise on a piece called "howa saHeeH al-hawa ghallâb" (هو صحيح الهوى غلاب) [It is true that love is irresistible], composed by Zakaria AHmed and sung by Um Kalthoum. It's on maqâm Saba, which is one of the most sad maqâmât.
Saba contains of the following notes: d; e half-b; f; g b; a; b b; c; d b (or re-mi half flat-fa-sol flat-la-si flat-do-re flat as I've learned to say here):
In other words it's a very Arabic maqâm with both quartertone and with a 1½tone interval (g b; a), and my teacher warned me that maybe I couldn't listen to it, cus it sounds so different than our Western minor and major scales. But he gave me a recording of it (thanks to Bluetooth on cellphones! Another recording can be found on youtube here) and complained that the 40 minutes of music was too short time for Um Kalthoum to sing.
He played it for me once (it's repeated in my notes) and then stopped, saying he would start to cry if he continued. "You have to feel the sadness when you play." And I should try to ornamentate it, not just play the written notes.
Saba contains of the following notes: d; e half-b; f; g b; a; b b; c; d b (or re-mi half flat-fa-sol flat-la-si flat-do-re flat as I've learned to say here):
In other words it's a very Arabic maqâm with both quartertone and with a 1½tone interval (g b; a), and my teacher warned me that maybe I couldn't listen to it, cus it sounds so different than our Western minor and major scales. But he gave me a recording of it (thanks to Bluetooth on cellphones! Another recording can be found on youtube here) and complained that the 40 minutes of music was too short time for Um Kalthoum to sing. He played it for me once (it's repeated in my notes) and then stopped, saying he would start to cry if he continued. "You have to feel the sadness when you play." And I should try to ornamentate it, not just play the written notes.
Wednesday 2 March 2011
Not so funny encounter
A and I met for a quick dinner "date" in our busy scedule, and ended up with our falafel sandwiches on a lawn outside Herod's Gate. At some point we kissed, and then a Muslim man came up to us, warning us not to do that here, cus "you can be stoned for that!" We replyed that now we've been here for more than a month and noone has said anything yet.
When we left the spot some five minutes later, an apple followed us in high speed, though luckily it didn't hit us. I suspect the Arab boys, who'd gathered close to where we sat, for throwing it - but it might just be my prejudices... Anyway, I severly dislike this kind of "perker"-behavior, no matter with cultural background or which skin-colour the "perker" in question has.
I don't think we would experience being thrown things at in the Jewish quarters of Jerusalem (A has one or two other times had Arab boys throwing things at him on his way to the university when we stayed in the Old City). Sigh. I'm all for dialogue and co-existing, but both sides have to agree on that.
When we left the spot some five minutes later, an apple followed us in high speed, though luckily it didn't hit us. I suspect the Arab boys, who'd gathered close to where we sat, for throwing it - but it might just be my prejudices... Anyway, I severly dislike this kind of "perker"-behavior, no matter with cultural background or which skin-colour the "perker" in question has.
I don't think we would experience being thrown things at in the Jewish quarters of Jerusalem (A has one or two other times had Arab boys throwing things at him on his way to the university when we stayed in the Old City). Sigh. I'm all for dialogue and co-existing, but both sides have to agree on that.
More music, now symphonic
I was asked today by one of the teachers at ESNCM if I would like to play principal clarinet in the conservatory's symphony orchestra. Yes please! He would leave the notes for me at the reception, and first rehersal will be on this coming sunday. In Birzeit University, which is close to Ramallah, and where the the main branch of ESNCM is.
I've now got the notes for the Overture to Mozart's Don Giovanni, Sibelius' Valse Triste, and a suite by Dvorak. The only problem is that they are so symphonic, that they are for A clarinet - as is usual for a symphony orchestra - and mine is a B flat clarinet. But I'll transpose them (thanks to Finale for helping!), and I look very much forward to rehersal on sunday!
I've now got the notes for the Overture to Mozart's Don Giovanni, Sibelius' Valse Triste, and a suite by Dvorak. The only problem is that they are so symphonic, that they are for A clarinet - as is usual for a symphony orchestra - and mine is a B flat clarinet. But I'll transpose them (thanks to Finale for helping!), and I look very much forward to rehersal on sunday!
Tuesday 1 March 2011
Who's crossing the street?
Close to New Gate, where Jaffa Road ends at the Old City (we're calling the square "Mamilla View" because we can't find an official name for it), big light intersection, and across I spot monk. In brown robes and all. And on a bike.And this is quite normal in Jerusalem close to and inside the Old City, where you can easily pass three different kinds of monks, nuns, religious heads or pilgrims in special clothes - the traditional Jews don't count, there's so many of them; but I still think they look funny with hats and curls and long, black coats.
Sunday 27 February 2011
Museum on the Seam
Located in a former checkpoint house between the Israeli and Jordanese parts of divided Jerusalem, scared from gunfires from several assult, this museum now raises questions about socio-political reality and the various civil rights. It's not big, we went through it in a couple of ours, and some of the "art" is only art because it's in a museum. But it also had some nice pieces, that made me think. First of all that I still don't know the local history well enough. And I didn't know the razor-wire was invented in South Africa (an artist from SA had bended razor-wire into frames).
I liked the very expressive and composed photographies by Claudia Rogge - e.g. one with people in black robes, had they been white were it Ku Klux Klan, one holding a big silver cross supported on the ground - and the "invisible Man" photo bu Liu Bolin, apparently he's made many more, very impressive photographs. (Here's an article about him with many pictures.)
The best Israeli piece was a short movie by Doron Solomons (and normally I don't like movies in museums, I think they are too wierd), called "Blood brothers" in Hebrew and "Brothers in arms" in English. A repeating scene called "Brotherly love" was the artist as a siametic twin, doing worse and worse things to his other half - I interpreted it as Israelis and Palestinians who fight over this piece of land - ending with something like "maybe I can't control my own body, but he's not going to control it!" and the own siametic twin shooting the other in the head. And maybe dying also, because they share the same body, the same vital organs?
I liked the very expressive and composed photographies by Claudia Rogge - e.g. one with people in black robes, had they been white were it Ku Klux Klan, one holding a big silver cross supported on the ground - and the "invisible Man" photo bu Liu Bolin, apparently he's made many more, very impressive photographs. (Here's an article about him with many pictures.)
The best Israeli piece was a short movie by Doron Solomons (and normally I don't like movies in museums, I think they are too wierd), called "Blood brothers" in Hebrew and "Brothers in arms" in English. A repeating scene called "Brotherly love" was the artist as a siametic twin, doing worse and worse things to his other half - I interpreted it as Israelis and Palestinians who fight over this piece of land - ending with something like "maybe I can't control my own body, but he's not going to control it!" and the own siametic twin shooting the other in the head. And maybe dying also, because they share the same body, the same vital organs?
Saturday 26 February 2011
All this religiousness
Jews in traditional clothes,
Monks and nones èn masse in and around the Old City
Pilgrims walking and chanting, carrying a cross on Via Dolorosa (the believed path Jesus went with his cross - and it has changed several time over the centuries)
Muslim women with scarfs, some few with niqab
Big beards, wheather Muslim, Jewmish or Armish...
Souvenirs and souvenirs and tonnes of souvenirs from the three religions, often side by side.
One should think I would get inspired by it all.
But what I was most inspired by was a video send to me by a friend in DK, "Science saved my soul".
We're all made of stardust, everything we have here on Earth has at some point been inside a star. We're very small and unimportant. But we're here. Able to observe it all, to marvel over nature and everything in it, from the smallest plants growing, to the biggest stars and galaxies.
No restrictions from any God in this view (I miss leverpostej!), but because I am so amazed of how everything works (created by a God or not), because I think it's all so beautiful, I want not to harm it, and therefore I am kind to it.
And this is enough for me.
For now.
Let's see if Jerusalem can change my view...
Monks and nones èn masse in and around the Old City
Pilgrims walking and chanting, carrying a cross on Via Dolorosa (the believed path Jesus went with his cross - and it has changed several time over the centuries)
Muslim women with scarfs, some few with niqab
Big beards, wheather Muslim, Jewmish or Armish...
Souvenirs and souvenirs and tonnes of souvenirs from the three religions, often side by side.
One should think I would get inspired by it all.
But what I was most inspired by was a video send to me by a friend in DK, "Science saved my soul".
We're all made of stardust, everything we have here on Earth has at some point been inside a star. We're very small and unimportant. But we're here. Able to observe it all, to marvel over nature and everything in it, from the smallest plants growing, to the biggest stars and galaxies.
No restrictions from any God in this view (I miss leverpostej!), but because I am so amazed of how everything works (created by a God or not), because I think it's all so beautiful, I want not to harm it, and therefore I am kind to it.
And this is enough for me.
For now.
Let's see if Jerusalem can change my view...
New strings for my 3oud!
I was happy to get my 3oud back - didn't think I had become so attached to it already, I've only had it for a month, and my theory is that one connects more to a wind instrument (through the mouth) than to a string instrument. But I might be wrong.
My teacher had put on new and better strings for me, and I can hear the difference in sound, though I didn't think I would be able to. I wish I had my tuner (which I forgot in the bag of my "old" 3oud in Denmark) so I could tune it properly - but I'm still able to do the fingering exercises I got. Thanks to my teacher for actually giving me tips on how to do "zakhrafe" [ornamentations] in the Arabic style, and for his patience with my still fumbling fingers. There's still a long way before I can play fluently, but I'll get there.
My teacher had put on new and better strings for me, and I can hear the difference in sound, though I didn't think I would be able to. I wish I had my tuner (which I forgot in the bag of my "old" 3oud in Denmark) so I could tune it properly - but I'm still able to do the fingering exercises I got. Thanks to my teacher for actually giving me tips on how to do "zakhrafe" [ornamentations] in the Arabic style, and for his patience with my still fumbling fingers. There's still a long way before I can play fluently, but I'll get there.
Friday 25 February 2011
Palestinian orchestral challenges
Today I rehearsed with the wind band at ESNCM. That is, we 10 people rehearsed in one of the three fractions of the wind band. The other two fractions, with 30 more people all in all, are in Ramallah and Bethlehem, respectively. It would be convenient to meet in Jerusalem to rehearse all together, but not all the kids from the Palestinian Territories are allowed to go to Jerusalem. So we meet in Ramallah. But only when we have a sceduled concert to get ready to, which we don't have now. But our conductor tries to get one, if not for anything else then for us to try to play in a bigger orchestra.
And once again I feel fortunate at home to play in a big orchestra, that can meet without thoughts of checkpoints, permissions and big distances.
And once again I feel fortunate at home to play in a big orchestra, that can meet without thoughts of checkpoints, permissions and big distances.
Thursday 24 February 2011
Concert with Shmemel!
We went to The Lab (where the entrance stamp is a mouse - of course) to hear Shmemel play (again after suggetion from the couchsurfer community). They play a mix of klezmer, funk, rock, and with loads of energy! They were great - unfortunately we'd forgotten our earplugs (and the soundmaster was of the regular type thinking "loud is great"), so we couldn't bear to stand in front and dance with the other people enjoying the music.
The band had a wind section of three sometimes four musicians, electric piano, 2 guitars, bass, drums, and a very expressive-crazy lead singer. Well, all of them were very expressive, and you could see how they enjoyed to be on stage and play. Many were jumping up and down a good deal of the time. They don't have a CD yet, but might release one in July. And then we'll be there. With earplugs so we can dance!
Link to video with some samples of their music - but the jumping energy miss!
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